Before laying on concrete or stone floors, first spread the combimat over the complete floor to protect against moisture and to subdue footfall sounds. The edges of the combimat must stand up at least 20 mm at the walls. The lengths of the combimat are stuck together with the integrated overlap (in the case of other under lays the overlap must be at least 200 mm wide).

Put on the horizontal guide rail flush with the two short ends of the plank like a new plank. This ensures that the end joints can be joined cleanly.

If using conventional under lays, a polyethylene film at least 0.2 mm thick must first be spread over the complete floor as described above. Then unroll the underlay you have chosen, e.g. corrugated cardboard, foamed film or cork, over the complete polyethylene film parallel to the direction you intend to lay your floor. The lengths of the base are laid edge-on-edge and must be stuck together with adhesive tape to stop them slipping.

Begin laying the first row of planks - tongue sides pointing to the wall - in the left corner of the room. We recommend that you first sort the planks according to the grain pattern you want and possibly according to colour nuances before laying the floor. Remember to keep a 15 mm expansion gap between the planks and walls, doorways, pillars, etc. This gap is best fixed with spacers. An additional expansion gap must be provided in rooms larger than 80 m², longer than 12 m or wider than 8 m.

Only then, when laying the first row, join the end sides of the planks by tapping lightly with the special tapping block.
Only use the tapping block specially designed for this floor to avoid damaging the tongues and grooves! The length of the last plank of the first row to the wall is marked on the plank with the help of a shifting square and the plank then sawn along this line. The last plank and the gap must be at least 300 mm long.

The last plank is fitted with an installation iron and the spacers then inserted. If the walls are not straight, match the first row of planks to the course of the wall and saw the planks accordingly. Also first measure the depth of the room.

Begin laying the second row with the off cut of the first row. The tongue of the first plank of the second row is placed in the groove of the plank already on the floor at an angle of about 30° and the plank clicked into position by pressing down lightly. Lying flat, the joint between the planks must be closed. For long-term laying, the profile has a glue reservoir so that the planks can be glued together if wanted. For this, apply adequate cold glue of the type D3 to the top of the tongue.

The second plank of the second row is clicked in as close as possible to the first plank. The gap between the end joints is closed by joining the two planks by tapping lightly on the opposite side. Always use the horizontal guide rail for every end joint.

For heating pipes drill holes into the plank 30 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes. Saw out a V-shaped piece from the edge of the plank to the holes. After laying the plank, glue the V-shaped piece, fit it and fix with a spacer until the glue has dried. Then cover the holes with radiator pipe trims.
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To give your floor the perfect finish, screw the special skirting clips into the wall at intervals of about 40 to 50 cm. The cut-to-size skirting are then clipped on to them.
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Adapter, transition and finishing profiles see to a perfect transition between flooring materials of different thickness'.

The floors are sealed ready for use with a hard-wearing surface coating, lending them lasting protection. Felt gliders should be attached to the bottom of chair legs. They protect your floor against scratches and pressure marks. Your floor will thank you with an even longer life.

Call in to our showroom for a list of comprehensive accessories.

Fitting with Glue